Vogue's September issue has always been important in the fashion world: packed with editorial shoots and advertisements, the September issue signifies what's seen as the biggest moment of the year for the industry. In a historically unusual move for the magazine, two artists were chosen to create the covers for this year's September issue: Kerry James Marshall and Jordan Casteel.
From left to right, covers by Kerry James Marshall and Jordan Casteel.
According to Vogue, artists have created their covers before, on a few rare occasions: Salvador Dalí, Giorgio de Chirico, Marie Laurencin, and most recently, John Currin. This time, there was a key difference – Marshall and Casteel were given complete freedom to decide who would be on their cover, a real or imaginary person, and how that person would be portrayed. The only requirement was choosing a dress by one of four Vogue-selected designers for their subject to wear.
Marshall, widely considered one of the greatest living artists, chose a fictional character in a formal white evening dress by Off-White, the fashion label headed by Virgil Abloh, whose 2019 MCA exhibition drew crowds. Self-possessed and unflinching, the portrait is stunning – and we were honored to frame it for Marshall here at The Conservation Center.
Detail on the Off-White formal gown.
The oil on panel work came to us from Marshall directly, with a tight turnaround to make it from his studio to Jack Shainman Gallery. After an initial consultation with our Custom Framing and Fabrication Department and Heather Becker, CEO, Marshall chose an understated black frame, letting the painting speak for itself.
Marshall’s painting prior to framing.
The back of Marshall’s painting prior to framing.
Once the frame was decided upon, our team got to work. The piece was photographed for in-house documentation and then rushed to our laboratories. The frame was built up on the reverse to accommodate the painting's depth, and the build-up was finished to emulate the surrounding surface. The piece was then carefully installed to conservation standards, with an acid-dree coroplast backing board attached to the reverse to provide additional protection. The piece was archivally photographed again for documentation and ready to be shown.
Preparing to frame the painting.
Fitting the painting into the frame.
Installing backing board and proper hanging hardware.
Gently using a soft brush to dislodge any dust that may have gathered during the framing process.
The breadth of projects at The Center at any given time can be dizzying. Still, it's also what makes it such a special place – anything from a family bible to a Victorian armoire to this masterpiece by Kerry James Marshall, all under the same roof. We pride ourselves on putting the same level of care into each project, and it's truly a pleasure to do this work.
The painting, after framing.
The back of the painting after framing.
To read more about Marshall's process and Jordan Casteel's piece, enjoy the Vogue article detailing their September issue here.
